Cocula is pretty tied to its past - it is relatively isolated, off the beaten path. Hardly ever a tourist or any gringos. I get stared at a lot, but a "Buenos Dias" or "Buenas Tardes" never fails to produce a smile and response in kind.
Men ride horses through city streets routinely, and sometimes herd a few cows as well. Walking around you can hear goats, sheep, roosters, cows, and the occasional pig. Dogs and chickens are everywhere. Kids and bicycles are also everywhere - where in Merida I was constantly dodging noisy buses belching black smoke, here I find myself dodging bicycles, which kind of sneak up on you if you don´t pay attention.
There are a lot of fine old colonial houses, many with interior courtyards and nice gardens. Sadly, may are near or in total ruins, but even some of those are occupied by the descendents of the original families, fallen on hard times I guess. They make do with primitive shanties inside the still imposing facades.
The weather here couldn´t be finer - in mid-winter it is in the mid-80s during the day, hot in the sun, but fine in the shade. At night, maybe 70. Dry, with light breezes so far.
The trip here was ugly - four hours to Houston, three hours in the ugly airport there, then two hours on the mini-jet to GDL. Overnight at a really BAD hotel (cheapskates often get what they pay for). Finally, this morning, the 1.75 hr bus ride to Cocula. Doña Margarita made me eggs and ham, frijoles, and hot tortillas, and I had a nice cup of Nescaf, which sort of started me back on the road to feeling human again. Had a nice nap, and just finished my second long walk of the day.
Tomorrow I have the whole day and evening - which should be just about right to finish doing what I missed out on last time I was here.